Creole Upland Birds

Whether using game bird bone-in pieces, breasts, or legs and thighs, this recipe is versatile enough for any cuts. Stove-top, pressure cooker, or a slow cooker can be used to cook the birds with equally delicious outcomes.

This is a great recipe that works well with tender grouse, ptarmigan, pheasant, chukar or wild turkey, be they fresh or frozen. Just make sure to clean out any bloodshot and bruised flesh prior to cooking in order to optimize the quality of the end product.

1 pound grouse breasts
1/3 cup flour
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground oregano
1/2 teaspoon thyme
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 jalapeño pepper, chopped
1/2 bell pepper, chopped
1/2 cup celery, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 14.5 ounce can diced tomatoes
1/2 cup water
3 tablespoons ketchup
2 bay leaves
1 sprig fresh rosemary
Fresh parsley for garnish

In a shallow dish, mix flour, paprika, salt, pepper, oregano, and thyme until mixed thoroughly. Dredge bird breasts in flour mixture, coating completely. In a large skillet, heat butter and oil on medium high heat. Fry coated bird breasts until golden brown on both sides. Remove from skillet. Add more olive oil if needed and sauté onion, peppers, celery and garlic until softened. Sprinkle in the remaining seasoned flour and add diced tomatoes and water. Bring to a boil, whisking to smooth until thickened. Add ketchup and return browned game bird and onion mixture to the pan, mixing gently. Add bay leaves and rosemary and lower heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until game bird reaches desired doneness, 15-20 minutes. Serve over rice with fresh parsley.

Quick Fixes While Hunting With Your Versatile Gun Dog

With winter comes loads of bird hunting opportunities for you and your versatile gun dog. For many of us our season started in September, with grouse, quail, doves and pigeons. For others, it began with early season waterfowl or high in the mountains for chukar. And don’t overlook those joyous rooster pheasants and Huns.

If you were out on some of those early season hunts, you’ve likely fixed any problems your gun dog displayed. If you’re kicking off your bird hunting season this now, be proactive and fix any glitches your dog might have while on the hunt.

“The collar comes off the dog when it goes in the ground,” a noted trainer once told me. Though it may sound a bit extreme, what it really translates to is that no matter how good your dog is, the training never stops. On these first hunts of the year your dog is as excited as you are, if not more, and it’s up to you to control their behavior. Don’t let your gun dog get away with inappropriate behavior, as you’re sending them the message that it’s okay, when really it’s not. You don’t want to break what you’ve worked so hard to attain all summer.

Often a verbal command or an audible buzz tone of the collar is all it takes to correct unwanted behavior that your versatile gun dog is exhibiting. Your dog should always know when it’s doing something wrong.

Keep things simple and know that dogs will have off-days, especially early in the season. If I see my dog doing something during a hunt that’s not right, I’ll either pull it aside and turn it into a half-hour training session right there, or if I’m hunting with friends and their dogs, I’ll work through the issues at lunch. This might 

be steadiness drills or finishing a retrieve, two common mishaps that are encountered on some of the first bird hunts of the season.

I don’t use treats to motivate gun dogs, either, especially when it comes to correcting unwanted behaviors. With older dogs their reward is getting to retrieve a bird, then the praise I give them. With pups, I’ll sometimes use their food to get them to sit or stay, but that’s it. Your dog’s desire to hunt and please you by doing the right thing is all the motivation they need to succeed.

If you have a pup that wants to creep on a point for chukar or quail, hold it by the collar and let a buddy move in for the flush and shot. Hold the pup so it doesn’t break, then reward it by letting it retrieve a bird while under control. Older dogs know better, so I handle them differently. I have a German shorthair who loves to point but not retrieve, so when this happens I’ll pull her off the next point and move to another covey. If a dog doesn’t want to stand on a covey, or hold when I’m shooting, I’ll make the dog hold steady, then I’ll walk into a covey, flush it and intentionally shoot and miss, watching my dog to make sure it holds steady. This lets the dog know I’m serious.

When on a hunt it can be hard to set down the gun and correct your dog. But remember, a quick fix while on the hunt can make a huge difference in how your dog performs and will set the tone for the rest of the season.

15 Gun Dog Training Tips

If you’re a first time dog owner, here are 15 things to avoid, from Scott Haugen, who owns two of our pudelpointers.

Transcript:

With the pandemic has come a huge increase in hunters getting dogs, which is great! Making my living in the outdoors, I’m around a lot of different dogs and especially pups over the past two seasons. I’m Scott Haugen. And if you’re a first time owner of a hunting dog, here are 15 tips you’ll want to avoid.

Number 1: Avoid playing tug of war.

Puppies play tug of war to establish dominance within the litter, and they’ll want to do the same with you. Don’t do it, ever. The last thing you want is a mature dog trying to prove who’s boss. It may seem fine at home, but in the field, it can be a catastrophe. You’re the boss and always will be, so avoid even putting yourself in a position to have to compromise your leadership role.

Rope toys are good for the teeth and gums, as are bones and they release endorphins while chewing, so just let the pup play with it on its own.

Number 2: Don’t use bumpers as toys.

Bumpers are used for training. Toys, they’re used for play. Don’t mix th em up as this sends mixed messages to your dog. As your pup matures, it’ll distinguish the difference between the two to achieve this.

Only used toys during play and only do formal training with bumpers. You’ll see the difference in your dog’s demeanor the moment you grab one or the other.

Number 3: don’t encourage fast eating.

One of the worst things you can do is encourage your dog to eat fast. It may seem funny, but it could lead to bloat, indigestion, and stomach twist, which is highly fatal in some deep chested hunting dogs.

If your dog eats fast, use special bowls or add water to the dry kibble to slow down its intake.

Number 4: Don’t let your dog run out the door ahead of you.

Never let your dog burst out the door in front of you. From other people to other dogs, snakes, skunks, or worse, oncoming cars, there’s no telling what they might encounter on the other side.

Keep control of your dog at all times, letting them through house and car doors only when you give the command.

Number 5: Never call a dog to you, then scold it.

Dogs remember the last command given, so never call them over with the intent to scold them for something they’ve previously done wrong. They did the right thing by coming to you.

Scolding them for that action can do long term damage and quickly make them lose trust in you.

Number 6: No teasing.

Never tease a hunting dog as this will send them mixed messages resulting in their loss of trust in you and it’ll greatly frustrate them. Gun dogs are highly intelligent and our communications must be consistent and predictable at all times.

Playing is different than teasing. Playing is great, teasing is not.

Number 7: Don’t neglect playtime.

Dogs love to play. You should spend more time playing with your dog than training it. This is when strong bonds are formed. Communication lines develop, and when they learn to trust, appreciate, even respect you, a great deal of training is actually achieved through playing.

Just keep communications consistent and fun.

Number 8: Avoid long sentences.

Gun dogs are smart, but not that smart. Speaking to them in lengthy sentences only confuses them. Keep communication to single words or two or three word sentences in order to avoid confusing and frustrating your dog and you.

Number 9: Avoid confinement.

Gun dogs need space. If you live in an apartment with no big yard for them to run in, this is not the place to have a hunting dog. Gun dogs aren’t designed to be confined to small kennels every day either. The more room they have to run, the more relaxed, happier, and healthier they will be.

Number 10: When training, don’t wear sunglasses.

Dogs rely on reading your eyes. A great deal of training is built on body language and eye contact, not just verbal cues. Never cover your eyes when training or playing with your dog. Dog owners often say, dogs can read minds. But what they really mean is, dogs try to anticipate your next move and they largely have achieved this through eye contact.

Number 11: Don’t overreact to a situation.

Never overreact to a dog’s lack of performance or disobedience. Save those reactions for when they’re about to run in front of a car, attack a porcupine, or wrestle with a snake. Calm communication is often all that’s needed to get a positive response from your dog.

Number 12: Don’t issue multiple commands at once.

Never layer your commands. Give one command at a time and don’t issue another until the first is achieved. Don’t be the one who hollers, Whoa, back, sit. Come here. Get over there. No, back. Get over here. Fetch it. Come on, bring it here. Hurry up. The dog has no clue what you’re trying to convey.

First, woe it. Then send it back. Then make it sit. It’s simple. Be patient and clear in all communication.

Number 13: Don’t rely on treats when training your dog.

Dogs that perform for treats often disconnect from their owner. Such superficial bonds result in a lack of respect and drive by the dog. A dog should always want to carry out a task to please you, not for a treat.

Number 14: Don’t play on hardwood floors.

Never play with a dog on wood, tile, or linoleum floors. While it might seem funny to watch them spin their wheels, it’s a sure ticket to costly hip, back, leg, and foot problems.

Number 15: Don’t overfeed your dog.

The worst thing you can do for your dog is to allow it to overeat and gain weight.

For some breeds, one extra pound of weight can deplete the dog’s life by up to a year. Keep them lean, healthy, and feed the best quality food you can afford. Avoid cheap foods packed with filler and inflammatory ingredients. Poor quality food is one of the biggest obstacles for dog owners to overcome, so please do the research.

Of course, there’s a lot more, but I’m hoping that by avoiding these 15 tips, you’ll be well on your way to establishing a fun, trusting, genuine relationship with your dog.

Have fun out there!

Pudelpointers: A Versatile Gun Dog Breed

Story & Photos by Scott Haugen

Jess Spradley of Cabin Creek Gun Dogs in Lakeview, Ore., (cabincreekgundogs.com) is one of the most respected trainers and field trial specialists in the country. He’s been around dogs his whole life and built his field trial reputation working with German Shorthaired Pointers. A decade ago he had the opportunity to start working with pudelpointers.

“I did a lot of looking at versatile gun dog breeds and chose pudelpointers due to their versatility,” begins Spradley. “As a dog trainer, working with a breed that naturally hunts upland birds, waterfowl, shed antlers, squirrels, and more, made my choice of the versatile pudelpointer pretty easy. And we owe these qualities to the breeders before us who set high, stringent, standards and stuck with it. When I got into it, the pudelpointer breed was well-handled and hunters could get great dogs, but today, as more people are breeding litters to sell at high volume, the quality of dogs has become watered down, so potential owners need to do their homework.”

Lon, perhaps the most well-known pudelpointer of our day.

In the late 1800s Germany aggressively promoted hunting within their country. The development of dogs to be used in hunting was also encouraged, and this is when pudels–the German spelling of poodle–widely known as water dogs, were becoming extremely popular. The water dogs varied in coat color and length, but they all had long hair, usually curly, and worked diligently in water and cold conditions, largely as herding dogs. These water dogs were known for their drive and intelligence.

During this time in history, English pointers were very popular throughout much of Europe, which added to the interest of a new possible breed. English pointers were known for their speed and drive to work hard in the field. Breeders of the time crossed various water dogs with prized English pointers. Eventually, desired hair types and behaviors were achieved and ultimately, the versatile pudelpointer gun dogs were born.

In the 1890s pudelpointers became a registered breed, meaning pudelpointers could be bred with other pudelpointers. The goal of early lovers of pudelpointers was to produce a rough-coated dog with a wide range of hunting abilities to be utilized in an array of habitats and conditions for multiple species of birds and small game.

Sigbot “Bodo” Winterhelt is credited with bringing the pudelpointer breed from Germany to North America in the 1950s. Winterhelt, one of the NAVHDA founders, eventually settled in Oregon. Oregon has a very active, dedicated group of pudelpointer breeders, owners, and hunters who are afield with this versatile gun dog breed, year-round.

“Pudelpointers are very intelligent to train,” continues Spradley. “They retain information for a long time and there’s often little need to reteach them, even the following season, like you would other breeds. Pudelpointers are also a great first time dog for people because they’re easy to handle and their disposition is second to none. Pudelpointers have a great personality and have an off switch, and they know when to use it. Pudelpointers are fantastic around children, yet have a tenacious drive in the field.”

I own two pudelpointers, both coming from Spradley’s bloodline, and all he says about them is true. I quickly learned with my dogs–and other pudelpointers I’ve worked with–that they’re a sensitive breed. “Pudelpointers don’t do well with a heavy hand,” notes Spradley. “I can steer most of the training with verbal commands and eye contact, versus having to use an e-collar. These dogs know, quickly, if you’re disappointed in them and they’ll try their hardest to please you.”

Hunters who’ve owned Cabin Creek Gun Dog pups will wait years for the perfect pup on their second go-around. “Starting out, my goal was to finish with pudelpointers that were better than what I started with,” concludes Spradley. “I wanted to improve the breed any way I could and I have tried doing this by importing high-end bloodlines and infusing those into the best U.S. bloodlines I could find.” Spradley’s plan worked, but with such high standards, he’s only breeding one to three litters a year and many new dog owners don’t want to wait that long for a pup, understandably.

While Spradley has been rigorously importing, training and testing versatile pudelpointers at the highest level, then tediously trying to breed them, many other pudelpointer breeders in North America–including lots of new ones–have been producing more litters and selling them for much less. Even after months of training, if a dog doesn’t fit Spradley’s standards, he’ll sell it to a hunter and not breed it, which sets him back further. For Spradley, it was never a race to mass produce and sell lots of pups. He wants quality pudelpointers that seasoned hunters will truly appreciate.

If you’re not in a rush and looking for an extremely high quality bloodline of pudelpointers, then Spradley is your man. But get on his waiting list, now. If you’re wanting one of these lovable, high-performing dogs sooner rather than later, carefully research the bloodline you’re considering. As with any hunting dog breed, quality bloodlines are vital to a healthy dog that’s designed to hunt and behave at an optimal level. Once you see how hard pudelpointers hunt, how intelligent they are, and the level they’ll reach to please you, you’ll likely be planning on getting another one sooner rather than later.

Author, Scott Haugen, and his pudelpointer, Echo, with a day’s limit of pheasants, valley quail and puddle ducks.

*Note: This story originally ran in the June 2023 issues of NW Sportsman and CA Sportsman magazines.

Shed Hunting With Pudelpointers

Here’s the latest magazine article we were interviewed for on using pudelpointers–or any versatile gun dog–to hunt for shed antlers. Hunting for deer and elk sheds continues to grow in popularity, and using a dog not only makes it more fun, it can result in finding a lot more sheds!

Reading Your Gun Dog’s Mind

This is the latest magazine article we were interviewed for by Scott Haugen. It appeared in the Feb. 2023 issues of Northwest Sportsman and California Sportsman magazines. Because a lot of you don’t get these magazines, we wanted to share the content with you, directly.

If you pay close attention to your hunting dog, you know it watches every move you make. It looks closely at you when you get out of your favorite chair and it can tell by your demeanor whether you’re getting up to grab a snack during a break in the football game or taking them outside to potty.

When gearing up for the hunt, your dog can tell by the look on your face when it’s time for them to stop so you can put their vest on. Or whether or not it’s okay for them to run ahead of you when walking to the hunting locale. They know when the hunt is over and it’s time to go home, without you saying a word.

By looking at you, your dog knows when you’re getting frustrated, and likely, why.  Their tail wags when you laugh, even if you’re not looking at them. If you’re a duck hunter, your dog knows by the look in your eyes when birds are approaching. Or, if you’re like me, you watch your dog’s eyes, because they spot way more ducks than we do, and usually sooner than we can.

Spend time getting to know your dog and you’re very aware that it tries reading your mind in an effort to please you. But do you look at your dog’s body language, facial expressions and eyes to try and read their mind? Do you know how they walk when they’re ready to go to the bathroom, how their ears hang when happy, sad, or in pain? Do you know how your dog is feeling, what it’s thinking, and what its next move is going to be? If not, you should, because dogs communicate through body language and facial expressions, just like humans do.

“One of the biggest obstacles I deal with is teaching dog owners how to read their dog,” shares Jess Spradley of Cabin Creek Gun Dogs in Lakeview, Oregon. Spradley is one of the best known and most respected dog trainers in the country. He’s patient, loves working with all gun dogs, and spends a lot of time getting to know the dogs he’s training.

“A lot of people bring me dogs for simple training,” continues Spradley. “Whether they want me to teach it to whoa, sit at blind, or not break on the shot, it’s all simple stuff, really.”

Spradley spends time watching a dog before he begins training it. He notes its demeanor, attention span, how it makes eye contact, and its body behavior. Then he proceeds, slowly and very patiently. “I don’t want the dog to be shocked by any of my movements or commands. I keep communication simple and calm. While the dog’s reading my mind, I’m doing the same to it, so I can anticipate what my next move should be.”

Once the dog is trained, Spradley has the owner come pick it up. Before taking it home, Spradley spends time teaching the owner how he trained their dog so the owner can proceed in training the dog the same way. “One thing people need to realize is that training never, ever ends,” Spradley offers. “From the time you bring a pup home to the time it dies, every day is a training day, whether you’re on a hunt, training in the field, or hanging out at home. And reading a dog’s actions plays a big part in how you communicate with and respond to your dog.”

Inevitably, Spradley gets calls from many owners of dogs he’s trained, saying the dog is back to displaying the same unwanted behavior. “I just ask if they’ve worked with their dog like I showed them, and usually the response is ‘No, I’ve been too busy.’ First of all, it’s easy to look at your dog and see by the way it’s acting, if it’s going to try getting away with something or slip back into that unwanted behavior; that’s what dogs do, push control to the limit and this is where owners have to pay attention and can’t give in. Second, if you don’t have time to interact with a dog, then maybe now’s not the time to have one.”

Spradley is known for being one of the top breeders of Pudelpointers in the country. These are highly intelligent dogs that are sensitive and have a strong desire to please their owner. “It never ceases to amaze me, how much training you can do without actually saying a word,” concludes Spradley. “Get a dog that respects you and wants to please you, and it’s easy to teach them to do what you want them to do.”

For those of you who are parents, think back on how you raised your kids and how many times you directed their behavior without saying a word. When it comes to dogs, it’s no different. Once you pay attention to your dog’s expressions and behaviors, you’ll be amazed at how powerful eye contact and body posture can be in getting your dog to do the right thing.

Fall Turkey Hunting With A Pudelpointer

Looking to learn how to hunt fall turkeys with your versatile gun dog? Now is prime-time to hunt fall turkeys with your hunting dog. Pudelpointers are excellent trackers of turkeys, and they can also be used to flush a flock. A well trained gun dog will then sit next to you while you call the flock in with assembly calls; usually kee-kee sounds. Many hunters who own Cabin Creek Gun Dog pudelpointers have found good success hunting fall turkeys with this versatile dog breed.

Pudelpointers will also hold point on turkeys, should they decide not to run or fly. Turkeys are big birds and leave a lot of scent on the ground, and gun dogs love it.

When fall turkey hunting with a versatile gun dog, trust it. The scent laid down by a turkey greatly surpasses that of a quail or pheasant, meaning dogs can detect odors from a surprising distance, in a range of challenging habitats and conditions that might surprise you.

A few seasons ago a buddy was fall turkey hunting with his pudelpointer. He watched a flock of turkeys plucking insects on a hillside. When the flock turned uphill on a game trail leading into the timber, he let his pudelpointer loose. The flock had no idea the dog was quickly approaching, due to the tall grass they were in. The pudelpointer had seen the flock, and sprinted in, scattering the turkeys into nearby trees.

The hunter quickly covered the nearly 200 yards, but failed to find his dog or any turkeys. Figuring his pudelpointer was on a chase, he listened. Soon he heard an alarm putt coming from a turkey, 20 yards in front of him, followed by another, 30 yards to the left. He worked around a big patch of briars and found his pudelpointer on point. When we approached, a turkey flushed from the ground and he shot it. His dog retrieved it and they had fresh turkey for holiday dinner.

A versatile gun dog can also track turkeys without first seeing them. The challenge here comes in running across a turkey in the right habitat so the bird holds rather than runs or flies. A single turkey, usually a lone tom, is more likely to hold, whereas a bachelor flock of toms will often run or take wing into the nearest trees.

Turkeys will more likely hold in tall grass, briar patches and brushy thickets, than in shorter vegetation. That’s the fun of fall turkey hunting with your versatile gun dog…you never know what will happen.

Last fall a friend who owns one of our pudelpointers from Cabin Creek Gun Dogs was catching a lone tom on trail camera at mid-day. He took his five year old male pudelpointer, out. The dog has tracked many fall turkeys, his first at five months of age. They hunted into the wind, along the base of some rolling hills. Timber dominated the upper hillside, while briars and bushes were sparse enough to weave their way through, below the trees.

They covered over a half-mile before the pudelpointer paused, his nose stretching into the sky. His tail wagged, then he was off. The pudelpointer ran fast, sometimes with his nose to the ground, sometimes with his nose in the air, catching updrafts.

Suddenly, 75 yards ahead of my buddy, the dog stuck a perfect point. My friend worked around his dog, searching for a turkey. Finally, he found the lone tom, body flat to the ground, neck outstretched. As he moved to the side, the tom grew nervous and took of running. A quick shot ended the hunt and soon the pudelpointer was bulldozing his way through brush to fetch the 21 pound bird.

About half of the states in the U.S. allow fall turkey hunting with a dog, so be sure and check the regulations in your state before heading out. Also, be sure and check the fall turkey hunting seasons. Some states have extended hunts, like Oregon, who now offers fall turkey hunting that starts in mid-October and runs through the end of January.

Fall turkey hunting with your versatile gun dog is a thrill that you and your dog will look forward to every year. Pudelpointers love fall turkey hunting, and they’re very good at it. We’ve had many good reports of our pudelpointer bloodline from Cabin Creek Gun Dogs doing very well on fall turkey hunts, be it on dry ground, in the rain, or snow. If you’re one of them, we’d love to hear your story and see some pictures. Good hunting!

One of our pudelpointers with a tom she tracked, flushed, then retrieved.

Hunting Forest Grouse, Quail, Turkey & Tree Squirrels With A Pudelpointer

October is here, the best month of the season if you’re a bird hunter with a versatile gun dog. From doves to ducks, geese to crows, chukar to pheasant, turkey to snipe, even gray squirrels, there’s no shortage of thrilling hunts to be had, and our pudelpointers love it!

While chukar, Huns’, pheasant and desert grouse are on the minds of many upland bird hunters this time or year, don’t forget to get into the forests in search of multiple species. This is where you’ll find ruffed and blue grouse, mountain and valley quail, and sometimes all in the same day. With the current warming trends, you’ll also come across California ground squirrels. Western gray squirrels love the forests, and don’t forget fall turkey season, which gun dogs love hunting. Our line of pudelpointers thrive on getting after all of these birds and furry critters during the fall. Pudelpointers are a hard working, driven, very versatile breed of gun dog and we strive to achieve a quality bloodline so you can enjoy all these gun dogs have to offer.

Both the Cascade Mountains and Coast Range hold all four upland gems, gray squirrels and turkeys. Typically, you’ll find valley quail at lower elevations, ruffed grouse from creek bottoms to the high peaks, and mountain quail and blue grouse from mid to high elevations. Turkey and gray squirrels can be found anywhere. Don’t be surprised to find valley quail above 2,500 feet, especially if newly logged units provide food and cover. It’s not uncommon to find both quail subspecies in the same place, especially as winter approaches and mountain quail drop in elevation.

Ruffed grouse are largely homebody birds. They love lowland river and creek habitats, but also thrive in dense, 10 to 15 year Douglas fir. Prime ruffed habitat consists of thick cover bordering semi-open terrain with a nearby creek. These riparian zones also hold good valley quail, and are great work hunting with that versatile gun dog.

The strain of blue grouse occupying lands from the Cascades to the Coast are the sooty, while habitats east of the Cascades hold dusky blue grouse. Many sooty hunters begin the search at 2,500 feet. However, in recent years we’ve been seeing a lot of blues between 500 and 750 feet, thanks to the availability of food and favorable nesting conditions. It’s not uncommon to take blues and ruff’s on the same ridge; again, something gun dogs love, especially pudelpointers, which can hunt for hours in this habitat.

Sooty grouse prefer older stands of Douglas fir timber situated near clearcuts. A surprising number of sooty grouse occupy very rugged terrain that’s been disturbed by landslides, logging, even wildfires, too, something pudelpointers can handle. Where a disturbance creates an opening in steep country, and is near habitat that holds food, water and cover, a good number of blues can be found, but having mature timber nearby is key.

Blue grouse will occupy different habitats across their range based on food availability. Early in the season insects make up a large part of the blue’s diet, but this time of year it’s largely fir and tamarack needles. They’ll feast on grasshoppers if they’re still out.

Mountain quail are also abundant but harder to locate as the season progresses and big game hunters invade the woods. Mountain quail can hold so tight, like nothing you’ve ever seen. We’ve had our pudelpointers go on point within inches of a mountain quail covey, and the birds won’t move. You’ll love it and so will your dogs!

Most hunters drive roads in search of birds, then turn the dogs loose. The edges of logging roads are places all four species can be found in the morning and evening, gathering food as well as grit.

Gated roads that allow non-motorized access are some of our favorite habitats to hunt. We like taking off on a mountain bike, letting our pudelpointers work ahead.

If you’re fit to hike and your dogs can cover ground, focus efforts along old cat roads–rudimentary roads that were punched into the forrest to access logging sites. If located near stands of mature timber and logged units, these crude roads can hold all four species of birds, as well as turkeys.

Start early in the morning to beat the heat, while there’s still moisture and heavy bird scent on the ground; evenings can also be productive. Your dogs can cover a lot of ground, so be sure to have plenty of fresh water. Make sure their toenails are trimmed with no rough edges, as the ground is rocky and hard and you don’t want to deal with split or torn nails.

Be sure the long hair between the toes and pads, as well as inside the ear canals, is trimmed because grass seeds can be prevalent due to the extra-dry conditions we’ve faved. Not until we get a series of hard rains will grass seeds subside, so it’s a good idea to bring a fine-toothed grooming brush, even scissors to cut out knotted fur.

If running on rock and dry dirt, check your dog’s pads to make sure they’re not split or worn too thin. Make sure your dog is in good shape and not overweight; if they are, don’t push too hard, for we all know a driven gun dog doesn’t know when to stop.

Pudelpointers love squirrel hunting. If they see a squirrel on the ground they’ll chase it until it trees, then wait for you to close in for the shot. They’ll also scent them, track, and tree them. Pudelpointers love retrieving tree squirrels. Pudelpointers also thrive on retrieving ground squirrels, and it’s good practice to shoot them at a distance and direct your dog using hand signals, for the retrieve.

When it comes to hunting fall turkey with you pudelpointer, they can be sent from a long way to break up a fall flock. You can then grab your dog and sit in some brush, against a fat tree, and call the birds back in using assembly calls. Your dog will love it and it’s a good way to enforce restraint. Pudelpointers will also track and point fall turkeys, which leave a lot of scent on the ground. Make sure the state you’re hunting in allows the use of gun dogs for fall turkeys; not all states do.

Tracking Training For Hunting Dogs

Watching a hunting dog effectively track, be it a furry animal on land, an upland bird in heavy cover, or a crippled duck across water, is one of the great rewards of hunting with a good dog. While much of a gun dog’s ability to track comes down to genetics, a great deal can also be taught by us, their owners, masters, and trainers.

In addition to breeding an elite line of pudelpointers, we train multiple breeds of hunting dogs, year-round, from our home in Lakeview, Oregon. Teaching a versatile gun dog to track requires some dedication, but in the end, the dog’s performance will make it worth your time and effort.

The goal of tracking is conservation, that is, not losing a wounded bird. I’ve started many gun dog pups tracking at two months of age, getting them to use their nose on command.

At first, I place a little piece of hot dog in the yard for the gun dog to find. Right away I give the command “find it” so they know this isn’t a game. Their reward is eating it once they find it, and I always set them up for success. Place the piece of hot dog in spot where they can smell it, even see it once they’ve moved close to it.

As soon as I can, I progresses to using a dead bird to track with the pup. Some pups pick up on a bird smell quickly, others take a bit more time with the hot dog training. Using a bird carcass–one I’ve taken the breast meat, legs and thighs from last season–stored it in the freezer, I’ll pull it out to train with. As with the hot dog, I set up the gun dog puppy for success. With a bird, I’ll pull some feathers and make a small pile where the track will start. Then I’ll drag the bird along the ground so the dog can smell it. I put the pup on a check cord or short leash so I can control their movement as I want them focusing on progressing forward, not getting sidetracked.

If a pup gets distracted I’ll tighten the lead and get them back on track, allowing them to move at their own pace. The thing to avoid is slowing them down by overcorrecting. Keep the puppy moving, but in the right direction.

In addition to dragging the bird carcass on the ground, you can rub the skin around to disperse more scent, or pull more feathers from the carcass. I’ll put a few feathers on the ground every 15-feet or so, to keep the gun dog puppy interested. You can also use white pieces of tissue paper for sight recognition, too. The pup will go to the tissue, then pick up the smell. Soon the puppy will associate the feathers with the smell.

Keep the gun dog pup moving forward toward the bird, which is placed 50-60 feet away. Be sure and place the bird and feathers without the pup watching you, as gun dog pups are smart and will know exactly where to go if they see you placing a bird. If it’s a small pup, start with the bird placed 15-feet away. Keep the tracking training session short and positive, and always ending in success.

Remember, each dog, even as a puppy, is different. You want to place the hot dog, bird, or rabbit skin far enough away so the puppy can’t see it, but still has to cover ground and work to find it.

Having grass on the ground to hold scent is best for tracking training. If tracking training during hot summer months, do it in the morning and evening when there might be a bit of moisture on the ground that will hold more scent. Don’t train on concrete, gravel or dirt. Mornings are ideal for tracking training as the humidity is higher and tracking conditions, better for you gun dog puppy. Don’t track train on hot days or in high winds, either. Cool mornings following a rain or gentle mist are great for tracking training, as are foggy days with dew on the ground.

Once the puppy has straight-line tracking down, it’s time to train the pup on turns. To train a puppy how to track on turns, drag the bird carcass in gentle turns so pup can follow it, but make sure it has to work a little for it. As the pup achieves success, make more turns and increase the angle of severity of those turns. If the pup gets off track, use the check cord to get them back on it. It might sound difficult, but the noses and intelligence level of a versatile gun dog with a quality bloodline, is impressive.

Some gun dog puppies like to track on the run or at a gentle lope, while pups track with their nose up, and still other pups with their nose down. With dogs that track with their head up, it looks like they’re not doing the right thing, but they’re actually catching the wind as it rises from the ground, so let ‘em work. As the puppy progresses, increase the distance and turns and introduce obstacles like logs and creeks. This is the time to start simulating what you’ll encounter in the field, during actual hunts. Teaching your gun dog in actual hunting scenarios is the best training they can achieve.

If you’re a waterfowl hunter, first master the tracking on land, then move to shallow water. Wading and dragging a duck carcass across the water is a great way to teach puppy how to track on water, and yes, dogs can smell the scent left on the water’s surface cripple birds.

Once a pup has tracking down, they’ll not forget how to track. Still, it is a learned skill, so come back to it and keep working on tracking with your dog throughout its life.

With a pup I’ll track at least once a day, often in the morning and evening, and I won’t overload them with other training. I’ll keep these puppy tracking training sessions short, fun and successful. With adult dogs I might track train once every couple of weeks, depending on how the sessions go. Each dog can be different, so be sure to recognize what they need work on.

When it comes to tracking training, proceed at your dog’s level of achievement and strive for good practice sessions with consistent word repetition. I don’t use electric collars when tracking because I don’t know what the scent is doing as the dog moves away from me and I don’t want to falsely correct them. Keep tracking training fun and brief, and soon you’re versatile gun dog puppy will be impressing you with its skills.

Wildfowl Magazine Article